Rally on horseback before the Pyramids of Giza

A 15-year anniversary journal

Rally Around
the World

May 12 — September 4, 2011

116days
25,000+miles
4continents
1backpack
Begin the journey

The whole packing list

One backpack.
Nothing extra.

Everything I carried for nearly four months fit into a single backpack.

A few changes of clothes. Three pairs of footwear. A laptop, an e-reader, basic toiletries, a camera—and the small golden jeepney that would appear throughout the journey.

Traveling with so little made it possible to keep moving.
All the possessions packed for the 116-day trip laid out together
All I had for 116 days.

The reconstructed itinerary

Westward until home

Beginning in San Francisco—with a stopover in Los Angeles—and ending back home in San Francisco, the route crossed Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and the American East Coast.

Original 2011 world map tracing the route from San Francisco through Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and the United States
The original route map from the 2011 journey.
  1. 01San Francisco
  2. 02Los Angeles
  3. 03Manila
  4. 04Macao
  5. 05Hong Kong
  6. 06Cebu & Bohol
  7. 07Singapore
  8. 08Delhi
  9. 09Agra
  10. 10Rajasthan
  11. 11Mumbai
  12. 12Dubai
  13. 13Egypt
  14. 14Jordan
  15. 15Jerusalem
  16. 16Greece
  17. 17Turkey
  18. 18Bulgaria
  19. 19Italy
  20. 20Austria
  21. 21Slovakia
  22. 22Hungary
  23. 23England
  24. 24Netherlands
  25. 25Ireland
  26. 26U.S. East Coast
  27. 27San Francisco
San FranciscoSan Francisco

The golden passenger

A little piece of the Philippines went everywhere.

The miniature jeepney became the journey’s signature: set against temples, towers, deserts, palaces, and waterfronts—always carrying “Mabuhay” into the next city.

Golden jeepney on the Amsterdam waterfront
Amsterdam

The travel journal

City by city,
continent by continent.

01June 1–4 · 2011

Macao & Hong Kong

The first international detour

From the Philippines, we flew to Macao and crossed into Hong Kong. We climbed the steps of the Ruins of St. Paul and looked over Hong Kong from Victoria Peak, even as the skyline disappeared into the haze.

02June 5–10 · 2011

Cebu & Bohol

Island roads and old histories

We flew from Manila to Tagbilaran and explored Bohol by motorbike, passing old stone landmarks and the surreal landscape of the Chocolate Hills. In Cebu, Magellan’s Cross connected the journey to a much longer history.

03June 11–15 · 2011

Singapore

A city pointed toward the future

Singapore brought an abrupt change of pace: immaculate streets, a transformed waterfront, and familiar faces waiting when we arrived. The Merlion and Marina Bay Sands became the first unmistakable skyline of the trip.

04June 15–26 · 2011

India

The journey becomes overland

From Delhi and the Taj Mahal, we crossed Rajasthan through Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, and Ranakpur before reaching Mumbai. Monumental architecture stood alongside the spontaneous encounters that made the road unpredictable.

05June 26–29 · 2011

Dubai

Desert, steel and impossible scale

After crossing India, we arrived in a city reaching confidently into the future. The Burj Khalifa towered above the desert, while a safari beyond the city revealed the older landscape beneath Dubai’s monumental ambition.

06June 29–July · 2011

Egypt

The ancient world becomes immediate

We entered through Alexandria and continued to Cairo. At Giza, the pyramids were at once exactly as imagined and more immense in person. The route continued south along the Nile to Luxor and Aswan before turning toward Sinai.

07July · 2011

Jordan

Two otherworldly landscapes

Jordan paired the mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea with the rose-colored stone of Petra. Floating required no effort; reaching the Treasury through the narrow Siq felt like entering another age.

08July · 2011

Jerusalem

A quieter, more reflective stop

In Jerusalem, histories and faiths occupied the same ancient landscape. At the Western Wall, beneath the golden Dome of the Rock, centuries of devotion remained visibly and powerfully alive.

09July 16–20 · 2011

Athens & Santorini

From ancient stone to Aegean blue

From Tel Aviv, we flew to Athens and climbed the Acropolis beneath the summer sun. The next day, a ferry carried us from Piraeus into the Aegean and on to three nights in Santorini.

10Late July–August 4 · 2011

Across Turkey

Ruins, white terraces and sunrise balloons

Turkey unfolded as a succession of extraordinary landscapes: the classical ruins of Ephesus, Pamukkale’s brilliant mineral terraces, the valleys of Cappadocia, and finally Istanbul—a city spanning two continents.

11August 4–8 · 2011

Sofia

The European overland chapter begins

Crossing from Istanbul into Bulgaria brought gilded domes, open countryside beneath Vitosha Mountain, and the friendships that had become as important as the landmarks themselves.

12August 8–12 · 2011

Florence & Pisa

Renaissance streets and Tuscan rooftops

In Tuscany, the journey shifted toward cathedral domes, red-tiled roofs, and the view from above. In Pisa, the jeepney joined the city’s famous tower in refusing to stand upright.

13August 12–14 · 2011

Vienna

Imperial scale, everyday pleasures

Vienna offered the long approach to Schönbrunn Palace, an evening of classical music, an enormous schnitzel, and nights shared with new friends. By now, the moments between landmarks carried their own weight.

14August 14–20 · 2011

Bratislava & Budapest

Castles, the Danube and thermal water

From Vienna, we continued to Bratislava and then Budapest. Parliament rose dramatically along the Danube while the warm waters of Széchenyi offered a distinctly local way to slow down.

15August 20–23 · 2011

London & Oxford

The Thames and the dreaming spires

London brought the journey to the Thames. From there, we traveled to Oxford and wandered among its colleges, libraries, and debating traditions—from the Radcliffe Camera to the gates of the Oxford Union.

16August 23–27 · 2011

Amsterdam

A city experienced at street level

Amsterdam unfolded along canals and over bridges, among bicycles, boats, and narrow brick houses. Beneath gray skies, the city felt intimate, energetic, and immediately lived-in.

17August 27–31 · 2011

Dublin

The final European stop

The European chapter ended with music, pubs, and characteristic Irish humor. Temple Bar supplied the iconic setting for the final stop before crossing the Atlantic.

18August 31–September 4 · 2011

Philadelphia, New York & Boston

Back in America, still traveling

Crossing the Atlantic did not immediately end the journey. The final days passed through Philadelphia, beneath the Brooklyn Bridge, inside Yankee Stadium, and through Boston before the last flight west.

The golden jeepney beneath the Brooklyn Bridge near the end of the journey

September 4, 2011

116 days later,
San Francisco.

More than 25,000 miles after setting out, the final flight returned to San Francisco. The backpack came home lighter in some ways—and carrying far more in others.

2011 → 2026

Fifteen years later

These photographs are no longer simply records of where I went. They hold the person I was, the friendships formed in motion, and the experiences whose meaning changed with time. This site is an invitation to travel that route again—with the perspective that only fifteen years can bring.

One journeyA lifetime of perspective